Frame Specs:
26" Front & Rear Rims
146mm and 100mm rear/front axel
Gary Fisher MTB Frame
Front & Rear Rim Brakes (Front later converted to 180mm Disk Brakes with a fork swap)
Engine & Drivetrain Specs:
212cc 4 stroke Gasoline Motor
19mm Carburetor
CVT Transmission 2.5:1 Low Speed, 1:2.5 High Speed
Final Drive 4.8:1, 420 Drive Chain
Top Speed (Tested): 50mph
*Note: All listed images will be attached at the end of the page.
I had this Gary Fisher Bike Frame laying around so I though why not put it to good use and build a motorbike out of it. There were many complications with this process but I managed to push through with the designs of the motor mount and CVT front pulley modification.
Note: I will talk about the crucial steps to the best of my ability without crowding to many words onto this page
Modifications/Procedures to Complete this Project
Machine Crankshaft from 20mm (0.787in) down to 0.75in
Bypass 212cc Governor
Choosing the right Carburetor and Install
Hook Up Throttle Cable and route to proper cable length
Switch to Iridium Sparkplugs (For a more stable spark)
Machine rear Sprocket Squish plates
Modify/Extend CVT Front Pulley
Design, Machine, and Weld Motor Mount and Motor Mount Brackets
When I was able to get the motor to my shop at SFSU, the front pulley on the transmission would not slip over the output shaft of the motor. This meant that I would have to tear down the entire motor to get the crankshaft out, then put the crankshaft on the lathe to machine it down to 0.75in on the output shaft. Below is a picture of that process. The output shaft was machined from 0.787in to 0.75. All of this work just to cut down 37 thousandths from the output shaft. The process of removing the crankshaft was tedious. Almost everything had to come out, the Left side cover, Magneto and CDI, Right Side Panel, Flywheel, Pull Starter, Piston Lower Rod Cap, Camshaft, Pushrods, and Cam Followers. I was surprised to see that the camshaft was entirely made out of Nylon around a steel shaft but after looking back at the price of the motor, I can see why this was the choice.
(Right Image is of the Output Shaft being machined down. Left side is the all of the components and tools needed to get access and remove the crankshaft)
Machining down the output shaft of the crankshaft on the Lathe
To determine the correct carburetor size, I needed to do some quick calculations. Firstly I needed to determine the CFM the engine requires which is given by the equation CFM=(Engine Displacement cuin x Maximum RPM x Vol Efficiency ~0.8)/(3456). For me, my airflow value was 18CFM. I wanted this engine to breathe at higher RPMs so I opted for a larger diameter intake of 19mm. For this, I needed a lower pressure difference between atmospheric pressure and the pressure drop with the venturi effect while also having a decently high CFM rating. To keep things in the performance category while also being stable at low rpm, I decided to go with a 1kpa pressure difference and when solving for the carburetor diameter I got 19mm.
Below are some equations and pictures of the Carburetor on the Engine
Variables and Units
Qe = Engine airflow (m^3/s)
Vd= Engine Displacement (m^3)
nv= Volumetric Efficiency ~0.8
n= RPM
At= Cross sectional Area (m^2)
Cd= Discharge Coefficient
ρ= Air Density (kg/m^3)
Δp= Difference in Air Pressure (Pa)
Next came time to get the 48t 420 sprocket attached to the rear wheel. There was only one issue with that, I am using a bike wheel and the style of old rim brake wheels I use don't have any sort of bolt pattern attached to the wheel.
So I had to get inventive
I noticed that there were tapered edges on the left side of the wheel. That got me thinking about hub-centric wheels and wheel alignment. I quickly thought of having a hub-centric squish plate that would sandwich and self align on both sides of the tapered hub leaving the face of the plate to be perpendicular to the axel shaft. In one of the images you will see the sprocket mounted to the wheel from a top down perspective and hopefully you are able to see the even torque distribution and how that affects the centering of the sprocket.
Below are pictures of the Assembly Drawings and images of the Sprocket set.
Another issue that was brought up was that the front pulley would not slide over the output shaft entirely because the output shaft was not long enough for the secondary centrifugal clutch pulley. This meant I had to modify the inner front pulley to have a keyway extension that would be cut on the lathe and welded into it then machined down to its final diameter of 0.75in. This was done in this order due to heat distortion of the weld that may cause the extension piece to go out of alignment with the output shaft. Below are the pictures and drawings of the entire front pulley assembly.
The last and final step was to design the motor mount that would secure the motor down to the frame and have the motor on the back for the ease of alignment of the final drive chain. I had to measure the position of the 10T sprocket with respect to the corner of the motor mounting plate. Once I obtained those dimensions I was able to model the rear end of the bike frame and design a motor mount that would align itself with the sprocket on the wheel. On the support legs connecting to the bottom of the frame near the rear dropout, I had cutout a slot for a tensioner pulley that would be bolted in place and allowed to
Below I have attached images of the drawings and motor mount parts.